Smells coming from your chimney usually mean something’s burning wrong, like damp wood, tar buildup, or even critters. In Lakewood’s dry air, this happens quicker than in wetter places. The solution? A chimney sweep, dry firewood, and checking your damper. Ignoring it could lead to a chimney fire or expensive fixes. Start with a fast look at your fireplace and flue before calling a pro.
A chimney inspection is a quick check of your flue, damper, and fireplace to spot problems before they start. In Lakewood, where older homes and dry winters speed up wear, this can save you from a chimney fire or toxic fumes.
If your chimney smells like burning plastic, rotten eggs, or even wet dog, something’s off. Lakewood’s mix of older homes (many built in the 1950s–70s) and dry air makes chimneys work harder, and smell worse, than in damper climates. The first step? A chimney inspection to see what’s really going on. This isn’t just about soot; it’s about what’s burning in your flue.
Here’s what those smells mean in Lakewood’s context: - Burning plastic/rubber: Old gaskets, seals, or even a cracked liner heating up. Common in homes near I-70 where exhaust fumes can linger. - Rotten eggs (sulfur): Wet wood or creosote burning. Lakewood’s dry winters mean wood dries out fast, but if it’s stored outside near your home, it can stay damp longer. - Musty/moldy: Water damage in the flue or crown. Our sudden spring thaws and summer storms can trap moisture in older masonry. - Animal urine/feces: Birds, squirrels, or raccoons nesting in your chimney. Lakewood’s foothills and open spaces attract wildlife year-round.
What to do next: If you smell anything beyond normal wood smoke, grab a flashlight and check your damper (it should open fully when the fireplace is in use). If it’s stuck or rusted, that’s your first clue. For a deeper look, book a chimney inspection, it’s the only way to confirm if your flue is safe or if you’re breathing in something dangerous. Lakewood’s Applewood neighborhood homes, with their older brick chimneys, often need extra attention here.
Pro tip: If you’ve recently had your chimney swept but the smell persists, the issue might be creosote, a sticky, flammable tar that builds up faster in Lakewood’s dry air. The Chimney Safety Institute of America the Chimney Safety Institute of America (CSIA)|https://www.csia.org/)) warns that creosote can ignite at temperatures as low as 450°F, turning your chimney into a tinderbox. That’s why we recommend sweeping before your first big fire of the season.
A chimney sweep removes soot, creosote, and debris from your flue. In Lakewood, where wood-burning stoves are still common, this is non-negotiable, especially if you’ve noticed strange smells or slow drafts.
A chimney sweep isn’t just about cleaning soot, it’s about removing everything that shouldn’t be in your flue. In Lakewood, where many homes still use wood stoves (especially in areas like Green Mountain or near Belmar), creosote buildup is a year-round risk. Here’s how it works:
1. The sweep: We use a rotating brush on a flexible rod to scrub the flue walls, then vacuum out debris. For stubborn creosote, we might use a chemical cleaner (safe for masonry) or even a high-pressure air blast. 2. The inspection: While we’re in there, we check for cracks, rust, or animal nests. Lakewood’s older homes often have clay flue liners that crack over time, letting smoke (and smells) seep into your home. 3. The fix: If we find damage, we’ll note it in your report, whether it’s a simple sealant job or a full relining.
How often should you sweep? The EPA’s Burn Wise program the EPA's Burn Wise program recommends sweeping at least once a year for gas fireplaces and twice a year for wood-burning ones. In Lakewood, we tell clients to sweep before their first big fire of the season (usually late October) and again after Christmas if you’ve burned a lot. If you’ve had a chimney fire, you’ll need a sweep immediately, creosote burns hotter and faster after a fire.
Cost in Lakewood: A basic sweep runs $120–$250, depending on chimney height and access. If we find creosote stage 2 or 3 (the flammable kinds), we’ll quote you separately for extra cleaning. See our pricing guide for details on what’s included.
DIY warning: If you’re tempted to sweep yourself, think twice. Lakewood’s chimneys often have 90-degree bends or rusted dampers that make DIY tools useless. Plus, if you miss creosote in hard-to-reach spots, you’re just delaying the inevitable, and risking a fire. Stick to pros, especially if you’ve noticed smells.
Wet wood is the #1 cause of foul smells in Lakewood chimneys. Our dry winters fool people into thinking wood is dry, but it’s not. Here’s how to burn it right.
Lakewood’s dry air might make it seem like wood dries out fast, but that’s not the whole story. Wood stored outside near your home (or in a garage with poor ventilation) can stay damp for months, even in winter. Burning wet wood creates tar and creosote, which smell like burning plastic or rotten eggs. It also clogs your flue faster, making drafts worse.
How to tell if your wood is wet: - Sound test: Snap a piece. Dry wood sounds sharp; wet wood thuds like a drum. - Color test: Split a log. Wet wood has a darker, almost glossy core. - Smell test: Burn a small piece. Wet wood smokes heavily and smells acrid.
Where to store wood in Lakewood: - Covered but elevated: Use a shed or rack at least 18 inches off the ground to prevent moisture buildup. Near South Glendale or Watkins? Avoid storing wood against your house, condensation from the roof can seep in. - Season it right: Split wood in spring/summer and let it sit for at least 6 months before burning. Lakewood’s high altitude means wood dries slower than at sea level. - Avoid pressure-treated wood: It releases toxic chemicals when burned.
What to do if you’ve already burned wet wood: 1. Stop using the fireplace until the flue is clean. 2. Book a sweep, creosote from wet wood is extra sticky and harder to remove. 3. Check your damper: If it’s rusted or stuck, replace it. A stuck damper forces smoke (and unburned particles) back into your home.
Local tip: If you’re in a high-elevation neighborhood like Green Mountain, your wood will take longer to dry. Add 2–3 extra months to your seasoning time. And if you’re using a wood stove, crack the door open for 10 minutes after lighting to reduce creosote buildup. We cover this in our services we offer.
Animal nests in your chimney aren’t just a smell problem, they’re a fire hazard. Lakewood’s wildlife (squirrels, birds, even raccoons) love nesting in flues. Here’s how to spot and remove them safely.
That musty, ammonia-like smell? It’s not your imagination, it’s animal urine and feces baking in your flue. Lakewood’s mix of urban and wild spaces (like Mount Evans trails nearby) means critters are always on the move. Birds like chimney swifts, squirrels, and even raccoons will nest in your chimney if they can.
Signs of an animal nest: - Smell: Urine and feces smell like ammonia or wet dog. - Sounds: Scratching or chirping inside the flue. - Debris: Feathers, twigs, or droppings around the fireplace or on the roof. - Draft issues: A nest blocks airflow, making your fire smoke back into the room.
What to do: 1. Don’t poke it yourself. Animals (especially birds) will fight back, and you might tear the liner or damage masonry. 2. Call a pro. We use humane removal techniques, like one-way exclusion devices, to evict animals without harming them. Then we clean the flue thoroughly. 3. Install a cap. A stainless steel chimney cap (cost: $150–$300 installed) keeps animals out. Lakewood’s Applewood neighborhood sees a lot of squirrel nests, caps are a must there.
Cost in Lakewood: - Removal only: $100–$200 (if the nest is small and accessible). - Removal + sweep: $150–$250 (recommended, since nests leave behind debris and odors). - Cap installation: $150–$300 (pricier for taller chimneys or hard-to-reach roofs).
Prevention: - Inspect your chimney twice a year (spring and fall). - Install a cap with a spark arrestor, it keeps animals out and prevents embers from flying onto your roof. - If you hear rustling, stop using the fireplace until we confirm it’s clear.
Local note: If you’re near Watkins or South Glendale, you might spot birds flying in and out of chimneys in spring. That’s a sure sign of a nest. Act fast, birds start nesting as early as March. You can also review get in touch for a free estimate page.
A chimney fire leaves behind a distinct, acrid smell, like burning hair or plastic. If you’ve had one, your flue is covered in flammable creosote. Here’s how to clean it up safely.
A chimney fire smells sharp and chemical-like, almost like burning plastic or hair. It’s also a red flag: your flue is coated in stage 2 or 3 creosote, which burns at lower temperatures than you’d expect. The National Fire Protection Association the National Fire Protection Association (NFPA)|https://www.nfpa.org/)) reports that one in three home fires starts in the chimney or fireplace, often because homeowners ignore the smell.
What to do after a chimney fire: 1. Stop using the fireplace immediately. Even a small fire can leave behind hidden hot spots that reignite. 2. Call a pro for a sweep. Creosote after a fire is highly flammable and requires special cleaning (often with a chemical solvent or high-pressure air). 3. Inspect the flue. The heat from a fire can crack clay liners or warp metal. We’ll check for damage and recommend repairs if needed.
Cost after a chimney fire: - Emergency sweep: $200–$400 (prioritizes creosote removal). - Flue inspection: $100–$200 (to check for cracks or warping). - Relining/repair: $1,500–$5,000+ (if the fire damaged the liner or masonry).
How to prevent another fire: - Burn only dry, seasoned wood. Lakewood’s high altitude means wood burns hotter, hotter fires = more creosote. - Burn hotter, cleaner fires. The EPA’s Burn Wise program the EPA's Burn Wise program recommends burning two smaller fires instead of one long one to reduce creosote buildup. - Use a chimney cap. It reduces downdrafts (which push smoke back into the flue) and keeps debris out. - Get a sweep before winter. If you’ve had a fire, schedule a sweep before your next fire, don’t wait until you smell something again.
Local example: Last winter, a home in Lakewood’s Highlands neighborhood had a chimney fire after burning wet wood. The homeowner ignored the smell for two weeks, and by the time we got there, the flue was coated in thick, tarry creosote. The sweep alone cost $350, plus $2,000 for a new stainless steel liner. A quick call after the first bad smell would’ve saved thousands, and prevented a house fire. Full details in about our team and credentials.
Water damage in your chimney causes musty smells, rust, and even structural cracks. Lakewood’s sudden freeze-thaw cycles make this a year-round risk, especially for older homes.
That damp, earthy smell coming from your chimney? It’s water damage, and in Lakewood, where temperatures swing from 80°F to freezing in a single week, it’s a common problem. Water seeps in through cracks in the crown, rusted flashing, or gaps around the chimney base. Over time, it rusts metal parts, weakens masonry, and creates the perfect environment for mold and mildew.
Where water enters in Lakewood homes: - Crown leaks: The top of your chimney (the crown) should slope outward to shed water. If it’s flat or cracked (common in older homes), rain pools and seeps in. - Flashing failures: The metal flashing where the chimney meets the roof often rusts or pulls away. Lakewood’s Applewood neighborhood, with its older brick homes, sees a lot of this. - Missing or damaged caps: A chimney cap isn’t just for animals, it keeps rain out. Without one, water runs straight down your flue. - Base cracks: If the mortar at the chimney’s base is crumbling, water seeps in and freezes, expanding cracks over time.
How to fix it: 1. Seal cracks: Use a hydraulic cement (like QUIKRETE) for small cracks in the crown or masonry. For larger cracks, we’ll repoint the mortar. 2. Replace rusted flashing: Flashing should be aluminum or galvanized steel. If it’s rusted through, it’s time to replace it. 3. Install a cap: A stainless steel cap with a waterproof seal costs $150–$300 and stops most leaks. 4. Repair the crown: If it’s cracked or missing, we’ll rebuild it with a proper slope. DIY repairs often fail because they don’t account for Lakewood’s freeze-thaw cycles.
Costs in Lakewood: - Minor repairs (sealing cracks, replacing flashing): $200–$500. - Crown rebuild: $500–$1,200 (depends on chimney height and access). - Full waterproofing (including liner repair): $1,500–$4,000.
Prevention tips: - Inspect your roof and flashing after storms. Lakewood’s summer hail can damage flashing without obvious signs. - Keep gutters clean. Clogged gutters dump water right onto your chimney base. - Check for leaks after heavy snowmelt. Spring is the worst time for water damage in Lakewood chimneys.
Warning sign: If you see white, powdery residue on your fireplace mantel or floor, it’s efflorescence, a sign of water seeping through masonry. That’s your cue to call a pro before it turns into a bigger (and costlier) problem.
Your damper is the gatekeeper of your chimney’s airflow. If it’s stuck, rusted, or missing, you’ll get smells, smoke in the room, and even chimney fires. Here’s how to check yours, and fix it.
A damper is the metal flap at the top of your fireplace that opens to let smoke out and closes to keep heat in. If it’s stuck, rusted, or missing, you’ll smell burning wood fumes inside your home, see smoke billowing into the room, or even risk a chimney fire. In Lakewood, where many homes have old cast-iron dampers, this is a common issue, especially in homes built before the 1980s.
How to check your damper: 1. Look up the flue: If your chimney has a top-mounted damper (common in newer homes), you can see it from the roof. If it’s rusted shut, you’ll need to replace it. 2. Feel for airflow: Light a small fire, then reach up the flue with your hand. If you feel no draft, the damper might be stuck closed. 3. Listen for sounds: If you hear rushing air but smell smoke in the room, the damper might be partially open or leaking.
Common damper problems in Lakewood: - Rusted shut: Older dampers corrode over time. A quick fix? Spray it with WD-40 and try to open it manually. If it doesn’t budge, replace it. - Broken hinge: If the damper swings open but doesn’t stay, the hinge is likely rusted. We replace these with stainless steel hinges for durability. - Missing or damaged: Some older homes have no damper at all, just an open flue. This is a fire hazard and should be fixed immediately.
Costs to fix: - Manual damper repair (lubrication, hinge fix): $100–$200. - New top-mounted damper: $200–$400 (includes installation). - Full damper replacement (if rusted through): $300–$600.
Pro tip: If your damper is stuck open, you’ll lose heat and let cold air in. In Lakewood’s winters, that means higher heating bills, and a drafty fireplace. Always close the damper when the fire’s out to keep heat in your home.
Local note: Homes near I-70 (like those in Watkins) often have dampers that rust faster due to road salt and exhaust fumes. If you’ve noticed corrosion, act fast, rust spreads quickly in our dry climate.
| Service | Typical Cost in Lakewood | Best Time to Schedule | Who Needs It |
|---|---|---|---|
| Basic chimney sweep | $120–$250 | Before first fire of the season (late Oct) or after heavy use (Jan) | All wood-burning fireplaces |
| Creosote removal (stage 2/3) | $200–$400 | Immediately after a chimney fire or if you’ve burned wet wood | Homes with heavy creosote buildup |
| Animal nest removal | $100–$200 | Spring (birds nest) or anytime you smell ammonia | Homes near wildlife areas (e.g., Watkins, South Glendale) |
| Damper repair/replacement | $100–$600 | If you smell smoke in the room or hear rushing air | Older homes (pre-1980s) with cast-iron dampers |
| Water damage repair (cracks, flashing) | $200–$1,200 | After heavy storms or if you see efflorescence | Homes with visible rust or damp smells |
| Full inspection + sweep | $150–$300 | Twice a year (spring/fall) for preventative care | First-time homeowners or homes not used often |
Frequently Asked Questions
How much does a Lakewood chimney sweep cost, and is it worth it if you rarely use your fireplace?
A Lakewood chimney sweep runs $120–$250 for a basic job, depending on how tall your chimney is and how easy it is to reach. If you light a fire once a week, it’s worth it, soot builds up faster than you’d expect, and a clogged flue can start a fire. Even if you don’t use it often, we suggest a sweep once a year before winter. For light users, checking it twice a year (spring and fall) is a good idea. Check our pricing details for exact costs based on your chimney type.
I noticed a smell after my last sweep, why did the chimney sweep miss something?
A good chimney sweep won’t ‘miss’ anything, but smells can linger if the flue wasn’t fully cleaned or if there’s hidden creosote in hard-to-reach spots. In Lakewood, older homes with clay liners or 90-degree bends often need extra attention. If you’re still smelling something, ask for a second opinion, some sweeps use brushes that don’t reach deep enough. We use rotating brushes and vacuum systems to ensure every inch is clean. If the smell persists, it might be water damage or an animal nest, both require a deeper inspection.
Should you clean your chimney before or after your first fire of the season in Lakewood?
Always before your first fire. Lakewood’s dry winters mean soot sticks faster than in wetter areas. Sweeping ahead of your first burn keeps your flue clear and ready. If you wait until after lighting up, you might already have stage 2 soot (the kind that can catch fire) lining your chimney. Smart move: Book your sweep in late October, just as the cold starts. See our full seasonal checklist for everything you need to do.
My chimney smells fine now, but I’m worried about hidden problems. How often should I inspect it?
Even if it smells fine, inspect your chimney twice a year: once in spring (before summer storms) and once in fall (before winter fires). Lakewood’s freeze-thaw cycles and dry air hide problems like cracks, rust, or creosote buildup until it’s too late. For a quick DIY check, look for soot buildup on the fireplace walls, rust on the damper, and cracks in the crown. If you see any of these, book a professional inspection. Learn how to do a self-inspection before calling a pro.